by: Susan Gast / Author, Blogger at Beesville Books, Bored Boomers, and a Food Dehydrating Fanatic!
Plastic-Lidded Bins - Great for Stacking.
Store Your Packed Mylar Bags Safely!
Plastic-Lidded Bins -
Great for Stacking.
Store Your Packed
Mylar Bags Safely!
Consider using a plastic-lidded bin for easy closet, walk-in pantry, or garage storage of dehydrated foodsāfor long-term storage.
It's a great way to keep similar items grouped in an organized fashion. There's nothing worse than having to go rooting through piles of bags, or bins. Keep yourself organized!
It's better if you can find stackable bins that you can't see through, as it helps to keep the light out. All you have to do is clear off some shelving in the garage.
Yeah, I know I said "All you have to do," and yes, it's hard work sorting out stuff. But when it's done? It's done. You'll be so proud of yourself!
PLEASE NOTE: The white bin shown at the top of the page is NOT airtight, i.e. air can get in around the handlesāso it's pointless using a 2000cc oxygen absorber in these types of bins. They must be AIRTIGHT when using the big oxygen absorbers.
Again, the aim of these types of bins with handles is to keep you organized.
Plastic bins for food storage?
You can get these plastic lidded bins at Walmart, Home Depot, or
Lowe's et al. Just make sure that the lids fit tightly. Ideally, we're
looking for airtight bins.
You see, bins that have handles that "snap" closed are not airtight. But don't despair; they're great for storing filled Mylar bags and stuff you use on a regular basis.
Go visit my page Feed Buckets with Lids. These buckets are the best airtight containers to use for storing dehydrated food - long-term.
Plastic food storage containers with vented lids?
There's no point in putting our dehydrated foods inside containers with vented lids. We're trying to keep the air out, right? Right!
If you're using buckets and plastic-lidded bins, here's a neat way to store 'em!
Stack boxes in an unused or barely used closet in the houseāI prefer interior closets or a shelving unit assembled on a "spare" wallāREAD ALL ABOUT IT HERE! Garages tend to get too hot and too cold. And bugs are out there...
Remember to write the contents of the bin on the bin's side and you should have already written the date on the bags and their contents well before they go in the bins!
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NOTE: When using large AIRTIGHT containers, I add a 2000cc large oxygen absorber inside the bin amongst the bags, IN ADDITION to having a 100cc oxygen absorber that's already vacuum-sealed INSIDE the dried food sealed packages.
Just place a 2000cc oxygen absorber in the airtight container, along with your
Mylar bag packets. Remember, these large bins will not be
opened regularly, maybe two or three times a year or so, as we use up and
rotate our stock.
There are plastic-lidded bins available that have snap-on lids that are truly airtightālike bucket lidsāso please remember to use the 2000cc oxygen absorbers with those types of storage bins.
When I built my food storage wall, I made sure that there was enough room between the shelves (height-wise) to fit the bins.
Take into account that some closet SHELVES have their front edges bent downwards at a 90-degree angle... Make sure the bin can get in... and out under that bent 'lip.'
Hey, you don't want to build the thing twice, right? So measure TWICE, and DRILL once.
Give yourself a little bit of "breathing room" on top of the box, say about an inch and a half max.
It's pretty easy to change the factory-set shelf heights; simply drill new holes
in the uprights for the shelving screws! Make sure your metal drill bit's diameter is SMALLER than the outer diameter of the screw.
Use an old large nail and hammer to make a 'starter dimple/hole'
in the uprights, so that your drill bit doesn't wander when you first drill.
If you've got a set of nail sets, even better!
Here's a handy 3-pack of Stanley Nail Sets* on Amazon:
As an Amazon Associate, I earn commission from qualifying purchases. The price you pay does not increase. Read disclosure here.
Sadly, my nail sets rusted away in the garage - but bear in mind, they are supposed to be used for "setting a nail" just below its surrounding surface/plane. Then you fill in around the dimple with wood filler. They're not for making divots. But I won't tell on you if you don't tell on me...
I'm sure there is a wood-working guy/gal reading this who is cringing at the way I used my nail sets LOL. Anyway, a big old nail does the same job. Make sure you're using a drill bit that's suitable for drilling metal, too. Drill bits for wood drilling won't do the job.
Consider buying deep(er) shelving units so you can store your bins with the narrow side facing out, rather than the wide side facing out, like I did. You'll be able to store more bins that way.
You're always wiser after the event!
Remember: You can also use buckets instead of bins! Yes, feed bucketsācheck out the Feed Bucket page. You'll see great screw-on lids that just about guarantee to keep your flour bug-free and your dehydrated food dry!
You can also stack the buckets. Put the heavy buckets on the bottom of the stack so you don't get a nasty knock to the head if one should tumble on you! (Yep, I messed up the first time around!) Be safety-conscious at all times.
Don't forget to get your free "Six Simple Steps" eBook where I share how to dehydrate food safely!
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Hi, I'm Susan Gast and I've been making food preservation simple since 2010.
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